Philips owned Mullard so they would have relabeled Mullards. IIRC Philips also owned Amperex and some Philips EL34s were made in Holland. There was alot and still is a lot of relabeling going on.For example, I've seen Russian 6L6s labeled as being labeled as being made in Germany and as being made in England. Chinese 12ax7 have also been labeled as German. International Servicemaster sold 5965's(12av7) as 12at7's.
Regards, Dave Tomlinson
>Can anyone confirm that the "Made in Gt Britain" Philips tubes that came stock in many Traynor amps are relabelled Mullards. Someone suggested this to me, so I compared the Philips 6BQ5's that came in my Studio Mate to a pair of Mullards and they are identical. The Philips 12ax7a's were also a perfect match to Mullards.
>Rob
Greetings, Do you know of any mods to get a yb3 custom special to sound close to a Marshall?
Any info would be appreciated, Jeff
(... which Marshall ? ... six years ago someone brought me a Traynor YGL3A and asked to have it modded to a JCM900 ... not having played a 900 and curious to hear what a "fuzz-box/tube hybrid preamp" would do in a MkIII head I went ahead and performed the job ... well, needless to say it sounded pretty aweful at every possible knob setting - in fact it was so bad that I turned around and performed extensive surgery on a few 900s to restore them to a true and tried all-tube high gain overdrive circuit ... the circuit I normally woulda stuck in the YGL3 ...)
Hi, Can anybody tell me anything about the Traynor TS-10 amp? What are your opinions on this amp? Does it sound good? Thanks in advance for the info.
Sincerely, j.g.
Hi there, I recently picked up a fairly beat yba-1 and I was wondering how to go about dating this thing. The serial on the back is 2359 if that's of any help. There is a remnant of a schematic inside, but it is too torn and worn to be of any use. It appears to have gigantic trannies.
What kind of impedance do these like to see? I have an 8-ohm cab in storage, but I think the speakers are rotten so I have some options if I replace them.
Hi Stevie Rob and Gang
I don't know if I've ever posted this YBA-1 mod to the group or not, but anyway here goes ... the mod consists of an attempt to extract the most in terms of transient fidelity from the YBA-1 signal path without altering the gain structure or intended dynamics beyond a "well refined" objectionable point ... in some wine drinking kingdom somewhere ...
Traynor (YBA-1) Bass-Master Mod:
[1a] decoupling input bias circuits, i.e., replace the 820 Ohm/250 uF bias circuit of the input gain stages by separate 1k5/125 uF and 1k5/0.68uF cicuits. Cap value varies according to taste, the larger cap will give you deeper bass response - Traynors seem to sound woofy if a too large cap is used here ...
Some people like to keep the original functionality of the amp intact but then, in the separated cathode circuit version maybe have a large value on one side and a lean on the other as in Marshall 1986s and 1959s. I prefer [1b] disabling the second channel altogether and having a non-electrolytic 0.68uF cap as the only cathode bypass cap in the whole signal chain - the amp then becomes a pure single channel, high transient fidelity signal path ...this is especially noticeable during periodes of sharp transient attacks ... even at low level it'll knock you out ...
[2] change 4Meg volume pot(s) to 1MegA for a less "spongy" attack ...
[3] change tone stack to 5F8/6-A values, i.e., 47k to 56k and 0.1uF to 0.02uF. This network impedance matches well with the spectral nature of many typical guitar pickups ... amongst other things it brings in the midrange dip and narrows the treble and bass peaks closer together ...
[4] I like the old presence control, i.e. the old"scratchy" style circuit with only the 4.7k Pot and cap on the wiper. Sometimes, as an add-on I like to use a [5] dual 4.7k pot wired to a DPDT switch (to yield a 2.5k equivalent pot) in the presence circuit in order to alter loop gain of output stage feedback mixing at the flick of a switch ... this tends to favorise pentode distortion in the amp and also loosens the output stage a bit - at lower volume settings this gives a normaly stiff class-AB amp a slightly livelier feel ... I learnt a simpler version of this this from Dave Vidal in Vancouver who worked for Red Rhoads in LA during the seventies - the version I explain here is my own ...
[6] I like reducing the 100k feedback return resistor to 47k, this tightens the output stage and balances things out with mod [5] ... set to taste
The power supply B+ filters caps [7] could use a few more Farads, 80/450 caps can become 100/450 and 40/450 caps become 50/450; as long as these values are not exceeded this won't harm the PT ... on the other hand the preamp filter caps I leave as they are value wise
You can experiment with the triode/pentode ratio when the amp is overdriving by altering the preamp voltage headroom. The values R21=4k7 and R32=10k can be changed to 1k, 2k2 repectively ... I use 2Watt resistors for this ... you will notice a cleaner and slightly brighter response from the amp ... when cranked the pentodes will fire up earlier and give the amp a truely warm and sexy feel once [8] a careful biasing and funetuning of the output tubes has been done.
I hope this encourages other YBA-1 owners to explore the hidden tone available in this underated beast ... especially those who seek enhancements that don't alter the original set of dominant expressive characteristics surrounding the amp ... these are my ideas and opinions only, feel free to add or change things to suit your own taste and needs ...
Btw, in the single channel version of this mod the discarded gain stage can be used, in conjunction with a relay circuit, to give a 2 channel switching amp that produces a jaw dropping 70's overdrive and compression ....
comments always welcome ...
jc
>I just bought a '72 Bass Master head (4 inputs, s/n 211791). Looks to be in original condition, with the stock Mullard preamp tubes and mystery "Made in England" EL34's (dimpled top... Siemans?). Seems to work fine with the exception of scratchy/intermittent pots. What are the "Range Expander" controls supposed to do? Right now they don't do much of anything...
>I understand that this circuit is pretty easy to mod to JTM or Bassman specs. My tech has suggested adding extra gain stages (bridging the inputs?) or possibly adding a master volume.
>I'm wondering what mods any of you have made that have improved the sound/performance of your YBA-1.
>I don't do a lot of hi-gain playing. My preferences run more to Fender-ish clean sounds to bluesy overdrive. I also have a stock Studio Mate that I positively love.
>Thanks for the help.
>Stevie Rob
>Btw, in the single channel version of this mod the discarded gain stage can be used, in conjunction with a relay circuit, to give a 2 channel switching amp that produces a jaw dropping 70's overdrive and compression ....
I would be interested in seeing this mod in detail. I tend to like the clean, low distortion sound of a stock or lightly modified amp, - but it is fun to be able to generate some over the top distortion on occasion, if it can be obtained without compromising the basic clean sound.
Eric
Hey jc,
Thanks! Your timing is good. Altho' my YBA-1 is in pieces on my tech's bench, I don't think he's actually done anything yet. I'm sending him a copy of your suggestions. Maybe it will finally get him motivated. I'm looking forward to getting this amp working again.
Thanks again.
Merry Christmas!
Stevie Rob
I guess we're talking about something similar to a 2203 preamp. There is a schematic at Ampage. http://www.firebottle.com/ampage/ Personally I would retain a high cathode bypass capacitance so that the character of the BASSmaster isn't totally lost. The bass can be filtered off decently with a ~2nF coupling cap in the high-gain circuitry. I would also consider using a couple of the, now unused, holes for input jacks to mount switches. One to make a bright-switch for the clean channel once again to retain ye olde functionality and the other to make something similar for the high-gain channel. The 2203 preamp is too shrill for a typical strat single-coil pickup, IMO.
On the other hand, don't trust me on this one. I have never seen a bassmaster in my whole life.
/Olof Westman
Hey bud,
Have ya checked this site out:
http://www.informatik.uni-bremen.de/~dace/vb/index.html
Pretty good Traynor stuff.
I found a source for old Traynors ... check out Gilles Grignon's site at Rainbow music in Cornwall Ontario :
http://www.rainbowmusicshop.com/used.html
TRAYNOR 25WATT BASSMATE HEAD:CANADIAN MADE.ALL TUBE(12AX7'S FEEDING A QUARTET OF EL84(6BQ5)OUTPUT TUBES. PRICE: $175.00 CDN
TRAYNOR 25WATT GUITARMATE COMBO AMP:112,ALL TUBE,WITH REVERB AND REAL TREMOLO! THIS PUPPY BARKS BIG TIME! PRICE: $250.00 CDN
----
Gilles sent me some info on speakers that Garnet used and I will post the info when I get a chance ...
I've been having a few problems with my recently acquired Custom Special head. I noticed that after it warms up, a couple of the EL34's start vibrating. The vibration stops when I push up on them. What's the problem? Do I need new tubes, new sockets, or is this normal? Also, what would a complete restoration of this amp entail?
Kirk
I've been pretty much "out" of the amp hobby for the last few years due to circumstances beyond my control but the soldering iron is always nearby. One of these days, perhaps, I'll get back to my original wish to write a short book on Traynor tube amps.
I'm not exactly a collector, I'm more of a "tweak" and like to buy beat up things and rehab them. So aside from a Bass Mate head (and the mysterious "other version" of the bass mate - one apparently has 6V6s and the other EL84s, if I recall correctly) I'm interested in finding a battered Guitar Mate to work on.
Back in the storage pile I also have a blackface Fender Pro, which I've owned for years, a Sunn head, a Silvertone (Danelectro) head and a few assorted garage sale disasters of that ilk. The Sunn suffers from the problem many Sunns had: the transformers, which were huge (good) ripped loose from the chassis (very bad).
So that's the report from the wilds of the Eastern Shore. Cheers -- COD
Craig O'Donnell
Hi! I have a Traynor YBA-1 and YT-15 set that I bought for $100 that I was suprised to find is a 1978 (according to the Traynor amp dater). It must have been one of the last YBA-1 Traynors made. The YBA-1 serial number is "8011108" the YT-15 serial number is "7125596". Both are mint and I haven't had them apart. Both are black with the black plastic fabric and the baby bumper trim. What's the story on these later Traynors? Are they junk like a lot of other late 70's amps? There are two 6CA7's and three 12AX7A tubes in it... no fuse holder..just a red reset button... Thanks, RonJC,
I tried accessing your schematics for the BassMate with no luck. Particularly, I am looking for information on modifying the later BassMate models (ca. 1972 and later) to the specs of the earlier models. Also, do you have any suggestions on modifications of the BassMate as a guitar amp?
Thanks for your help.
Blewett Thomas
Hi JC, I would love to talk any kind of real tube amps anytime! When I have a chance I will most certainly send a list of non-functioning schematics to you. I would really love to get my hands on a schematic for a Super Custom I believe it was called. It is the amp that runs on 6KG6s. Many thanks and all the best to you and yours, Mark SzumskiSorry, What is the www for Used Sound in Ottawa. Thanks Rick
Hey JC,
I just picked up, today, a little amp in a trade and I'm wondering if you might have any idea what the thing is. All the logos are off it, but it's made in Canada, uses 2 12AX7's and a pair of 50EH5's, has (on the top) volume, treble, bass, tremolo, and an on/off switch, and has a vertical pair of Marsland 6" speakers. If you know what this booger might be could ya let me know please? It don't sound half bad for a little beater, but it ain't no Garnet Session Man!
later, Mitch Lane Windsor,N.S.,Canada
Hey pard,
Thanks for the message, especially about the Gemini's. Gonna snag me one fer sure, soon as I come across one! Sounds like there's a bunch of odd old Canadian stuff out there; be a curious project listing it all. What's a reasonable price for a Gemini? $200-$400 was mentioned in some of those letters: seem right? And do ya think the older 7591 powered ones sound better than the 6L6 models? Just something for me to look for. Just one more thing pal, are you planning on putting Garnet schematics on your site, same as the Traynor's? It'd be a boon if ya had 'em ! Bye for now, thanks again and good luck !
later, Mitch Lane Windsor,N.S.,Canada
They are using a version of the Traynor script logo - the original is a chrome plated zinc casting - the new one looks like plastic. Presumably the amps are typical solid state practice amps - not too inspiring.
Transformers in a Signature are the same as in early Bass Masters YBA-1 (at least the ones I own). All the Signatures I have seen are early with Fender type case, script logo, and 7027 tubes - mine has a power supply choke, but is not early enough to have a tube rectifier. I think they were replaced by the guitar heads with reverb before the arrival of the flip-top models. Like the YBA-1 standard Bass Master, they have smaller transformers than the YBA-1A Bass Master Mark II, and put out less power - about 45 watts.
The tremolo circuit works by varying the bias voltage, so when the tremolo is removed you have to modify the bias circuit.
Does anyone know what the difference is between the Custom Reverb YSR-1 and the Reverb Master YRM-1? I am confused, as they appear to be similar.
Eric
>HR>I would just like to note that the earliest YBA-1's seem to have had SS and tube rectifiers produced side by side. Right here I have two '66 models, both use identical trannies, the earlier one (ser # 0278) has SS rectifier and EL34, while the slightly later one (ser # 0910) has a 5AR4 rec. with 7027's.
>Does anyone know what the difference is between the Custom Reverb YSR-1 and the Reverb Master YRM-1? I am confused, as they appear to be similar.
Maybe they just changed the name as a marketing move or to differentiate it from the Custom Special. I suppose we could compare features and see if any difference emerge.
YSR-1 front panel: 4 inputs, volume 1 volume 2, treble, bass, reverb, speed, intensity, standby switch, pilot light. Tubes: 6 12AX7s, 2 EL34s, s.s. rectifier.I have a '73 YRM-1 with a 2x15 cabinet. Information is below.
>>Does anyone know what the difference is between the Custom Reverb YSR-1 and the Reverb Master YRM-1? I am confused, as they appear to be similar.
>Maybe they just changed the name as a marketing move or to differentiate it from the Custom Special. I suppose we could compare features and see if any difference emerge.
>YSR-1 front panel: 4 inputs, volume 1 volume 2, treble, bass, reverb, speed, intensity, standby switch, pilot light. Tubes: 6 12AX7s, 2 EL34s, s.s. rectifier.
YRM-1 front panel: 2 inputs, normal/boost switch, volume, base, middle, treble, reverb, intensity, speed, master gain, standby switch, pilot light. Tubes: 4 12AX7s, 1 6BQ5 (reverb driver), 2 6CA7/EL34s. s.s. full wave bridge rectifier. No choke.
Totally different amps.
I have a '71 YBA-1 and a '75 YGM-4. Looking forward to gaining some Traynor insights from you all. Paul
Has anyone tried this on a StudioMate or GuitarMate (YGM 3 or 4)? If so, would it be possible for that person to correlate the instructions with the schematic part numbers (i.e. R22, C24, etc.) Even after converting the nF cap values to uF, I still find some discrepancies between the instructions and what's in my '75 StudioMate, so I'm not sure what to do. And I hate screwing up. Thanks, Paul
JC, I posted the same question on the Weber Vintage Speaker Technology Bulletin Board and someone posted that they remove these from every amp that has them.
The output tubes in my Traynor look like they could be old so bad tubes could be a problem. I'm surprised none of the techs would have caught that while biasing the amp.
At this point I'm considering doing the following: 1) getting a new set of output tubes and driver tube; 2) removing the surge protection diodes; AND 3) checking the connections to the speaker load to make sure they're solid and checking the ohm ratings just to be sure. Sound reasonable? Thanks for your help!
Todd
>These diodes are surge protection which happens when the output stage is running way off-balance (maybe power tubes entirely dead or removed on one side) and the output is running at high load or open circuit ... these diodes where first seen in Ampeg amps and are recommended by Ken Fischer in Aspen Pittman's Second Edition of his tube amp book ... it's one of his only mods I kinda strongly disagree with, at least used on a universal basis ...
>If your amp is well enough balanced you don't need these diodes in there at all and, yeah, they often short out with time-x-heat and will blow the power supply fuse ... only shorted out B+ filter caps or a faulty power tranny can also cause this fuse to blow ... clip these diodes, remove power tubes, turn on amp, wait ... if fuse is ok, put back power tubes, turn on again ... if fuse blows with surge diodes clipped and power tubes removed then check B+ filter caps for shorts ...
>btw, many of the amps I fix went through two to five techs on average before I get 'em ... sounds arrogant to say, but I'd say most of the techs out there don't even know how current flows in a tube amp let alone find ground loops and instability sources in poorly modded ones ...
>... like doctors so-called amp techs like to bragg in order to deflect the fact they know shit about their foundational knowledge and origines - and then people wonder why Dr. Penfied's famous Brain Map, used for over sixty years in brain operations, was just recently discovered to lie backwards ... wooooooops !! ...
>white man coat maaaaahaaaan, aaahhhaaaaa sharade you are ...
>jc & the tech nitemares
>>I have a 1972 Traynor YBA-1A Bassmaster Mark II which is blowing the solid-state rectifier diodes even after two trips to the amp tech. Because they blow within minutes after taking the amp off of stand-by, other on-line amp techs have told me that something big may be shorting to ground.
>>Someone suggested that I remove the diodes attached to the plates of the output tubes. On the schematic, the diode sets are circled and labeled 6RS20SP20-B20 and 6RS20SP7B7. What's the purpose of these diodes? Could they be causing my problem? Can they be safety removed?
>>Thanks in advance!
>>Todd
I just reconditioned a 1975 YBA-2b and absolutely love it. I always used Traynors as a teen and thought they were awesome. For whatever reason they seemed to get a bad rap of being "unhip" but I'm glad I've re-discovered them.
Anyways I thought you might be interested in this photo for your archives! Let me know if you want to see the "before" picture!
Anthony Vanderburgh Toronto
P.S. thanks for the site
Hi JC
Here's the "before" picture !! You can see were I scraped off the sludge to see what kind of amp it was! I took it all apart and cleaned it up, popped a new power tube in there and the thing rocks!(and looks pretty well brand new) P.S. What is the address of your home page again (for some reason I've been having trouble finding you )
Thanks,
Anthony
Hey jc you've got a terrific site, thanks for all the info on Traynors - I'm a yank who got a bassmaster at age 13 and still have it 30 years later (plus some others) - the old tube traynors are IMHO unbeatable for tone, durability and their own vibe regardless of their ridiculously undervalued price. I have a Mark II bassmaster which currently behaves nicely with Tesla EL34s.....do you think I could put Sovtek 5881s in with a bias adjustment or is that asking for chaos? Thanks for your opinion!
>>I want to use the YGA-1 as the middle or crunch amp in a three amp setup.So I guess what I want is a way to get a smooth overdrive without having to run it flat out all the time. Not that that's a bad thing. Just a little impratical at times.
>>I want to stay away from a master vol. Is there some way to cascade the input with the trem section to overdrive it?
>that's the typical way of doing it ... now, the question has always been "what kind of distortion are you gonna get ?" ... for example, Randal Smith "boogied" the Blackface topology to get his MkII distorton circuit - the Blackface topology has lots of series resistance in it to prevent distortion (actually the resistors are there as mixers which results in less grid-current related distortion) ... I like to boogie the Tweed/Marshall signal path myself, because you get a more liberated kind of distortion ...
>you may want to boogie the YGA-1 topology witout reverting to another better-known topology and that will produce a sound in itself ... the question in that case is where do you stick the boogie stage ... to make life easy and to help prevent instabilities it "seems" that it is a good idea in general to follow the front gain stage to get a good quality crunch/distortion, but here there are no rules ...
>as for Master Volume controls, it seems there's no two ways to get around that unless you're wiling to live with the extra volume that accompanies the crunch (the crunch is the result of overload at some point in the circuit which comes as a result of higher gain and therefore overall loudness too) ... this is not an easy topic to dismiss as here are a number of things to consider at the same time ... you almost have to go in there and try things out and gauge with your ears, that's how I landed on my Fender mods and it took a few months of tweaking to get it right on- actually I just finished doing a friend's Super last nite ...
>I don't know if this info helps or not ... hope so ... :)
>jc
>Hi JC, Are there any books you could recomend? Also, I was wondering if I could modify the trem section to work as a sort of built in stomp box. So I could switch the overdrive on and off via a footswitch. Anyhow, just a thought. Thanks :) G
speaking of Brian, he's been over at my place a couple of times with his latest acquisition, an early 60's Vox AC30 ... a couple of weeks ago he had the thing ripped apart in my living room and we were checking tranny windings and this week he brings it back with the chassis newly crommed up and all components cleaned up inside (talk about restoration madness!)- I took out my AC30 and we jammed for a while to some floyd and zz tunes ... between the two VOXs, my Les Paul and Brian's Ricky 12string and his great voice we had some nice tone happening ... Brian was gonna get rid of his '66 Bassmaster to finance the VOX but has recently come back to his wits, possibly at a list member's dismay ...
as a side note, I get requests for amp mods all the time and thought I'd let you know about a book I just put together containing the amps mods that I use ... a section devoted to Fender amps deals with medium gain tube amp issues while the section devoted to Marshall amps deals with high-gain and switcheable super-high gain circuits which are also freely applied to many Traynor amps on account of the similarities there ... this book ain't a literary masterpiece but it contains essential ingredients for high tone and transient fidelity; ie it's not meant to be just read, it's meant to be used and thrown away ... ucan find out more at : www.lynx.bc.ca/~jc :)~
>Thanks! Looking at the schematic, it appears the leg resistor is R31, 47K ohm.....what value would be appropriate and what wattage necessary? Of course, I will try the 5881s as is before I would switch out any circuits, and use a bias probe to measure the current for ~35 -40 ma consistent with good sound and no cherry red plates..
Also, just picked up a Traynor BassMaster yesterday at a pawn shop in town. It's serial number is 1085 so it looks like it's '67? Just need some more information about this thing so having access to that schematic would be fantastic. Thanks much.
CBerger
Thanks again. You saved me from drawing this out myself. Also, I believe you're correct in that this is likely a '69. I pulled some info off another site that gave out a dating scheme based on serial numbers--for that 1085 serial number it indicated 67--but it is a MKII so you're correct. This really helps out.
CBerger
a circuit that I've used on Custom Specials has just been posted at my website ... though it's originally designed to save JCM900's from bad Silicon Implant Disease I've lived to hear it work really well in these big Traynorosoruses ...
I am thinking of selling my YSR-1 and My Studio Mate Combo 4 speaker model thought i would let u uys know first
bill they are in salem mass 01970
My several greats grandmother (Susannah North Martin) was hanged in Salem in 1692 for being a witch (well, she was a little crabby), the family has been a bit prejudiced about the place ever since. This does not necessarily mean the amps have a curse on them!
Todd
>I've been looking around for pair of NOS 6AC7's for my '72 Traynor BassMaster Mark II. The prices are crazy! Are there any current production (less expensive but quality) tubes that can handle the voltage of the Mark II? I've heard people mention Svetlana EL34's -- any opinions on those. Part of my concern is that the fan that is supposed to be in the amp was removed, so I'm worried any old tube would die fast without the fan. Lastly, what is that mod about raising the screen resistors to 2.0K, 10-watters, in the Mark II -- good idea? Thanks!
One of my Mark IIs has had very cheap Eastern European EI EL34s for the last six or seven years. Shortly after I bought them I read stories about many tube failures in Marshalls using these tubes. So far so good, though the amp has probably had not much more than 100 hours use since then. I suspect any good EL34 would be satisfactory - there are better choices now than there were back then.
I don't know about 2K 10 watt screen resistors - Kevin O'Connor has recommended using 1K 5 watt resistors twice in the Traynor list - see below:
Eric