Traynor Amp Talk #1

jc,

I opened up my Traynor amp like you suggested. It is a YBA-1, dated January 13, 1967. It's pretty cool to find out that it's that old. I was born in 1969, so I'm impressed to have an amp that's older than I am...

I got some spray cleaner at a Radio Shack ("Color TV Tuner Cleaner", active ingredients: 1,1,1,2-tetraflouroethane, Cyclomethicone, and mineral oil.) It helped the pot, but didn't fix it entirely. I wish I had thought to test it before bolting the amp back together. I guess I'll treat it again someday when I feel like taking the amp apart again... Anyway, it seems to have helped keep the static from occurring when you *aren't* turning the pot -- that's the important thing. This amp has a terrific tone. I can't wait to use it in a recording session! I doubt it could get loud enough for me to use it onstage, but at low volumes it has an incredible warmth and depth that I haven't heard in any modern amp. (I even think it has better tone than an Ampeg SVT, although the Ampeg would blow it away volume-wise.) I've got two modern amps: a Trace Elliot and a Hartke, but I would never consider using them for recording (I'd run direct instead.) This little amp paired with a hi-fi tube compressor could be the perfect studio rig...

I was glad to hear that the META tags I sent you were useful. It's always nice to be able to do some "info-bartering" -- that's what the 'net should be about, I think.

Thanks, Ed Butler.

(... "DeoxIT D5" spray is excellent for even the toughest to clean pots ...)

Found that little note, on your web page, which said you were going to set up some schematics of Traynor amps. I figured you had some emotional relation to this brand so I thought should ask you a question:

(... actually, it's minor ... don't get me wrong ... I'm "really" into early Garnets and BF/SF Fenders ... but Traynors are very nice no less ...)

I have come into possesion of a Mk-III (tremolo, 100W?) which is half dead. It needs to be renovated. Would it be considered blasphemy to redesign it a bit at the same time. Channel-select footswitch, extra gain stage.....?

Olof Westman

He he, exactly the sort of response I was hoping for;-) A small input giving a high output. :-)

>not at all, I think they should*/can/and even ought be modded ... there's great potential in the hardware. The only thing is you have to be a bit careful as usual ...

Aha, thought so!

>I picked up a mkIII this summer for $200. It had mint Mullards (third generation black base). ...

No such luck for me. This one's been used.

>the speaker board to a floating baltic birch plywood, that really livens it up - they used the wrong stuff on those amps - in fact I'm thinking of replacing the cab with a knotty-pine box, something that's got some resonance.

>always had a problem with a quartet of EL34 driving a pair of 12"'s (sorta ...) I think the mkIII would to better with 6L6GC's although I'm not sure ...

I don't have the original cab. This one's got a closed cab with 4 10"'s. I was planning to build an amp and so have stocked various material. I have a load of Phillips EL34s from 65. So EL34 is the way to go. Allthough I'm not sure of the quality of the Phillips tubes.

>anyway >there's lots of room to manouver in there and the tranny's are heavy duty.

Yepp, lots of "lebensraum".

>Myself I like using relays epoxied to the chassis for switching mods, and Ken Fischer's bias feed dual pot system is the only master volume circuit I use and recommend ... sometimes the typical divider master before the phase-driver is fine ...

yupp !

Although I was considering putting a couple of diodes in for a fuzz. Since this probably lowers the maximum output from that preamp, I may have to put in a separate volume pot after the other preamp. Or something. I dislike the way some Marshalls behave.

>If you hang on a bit I'll be publishing new Fender-based hybrid circuits based on the older circuits (i.e. Fender and Marshall) it may give you an idea how to keeping reverb and vibrato functions in the amp along with high-gain switching stuff.

>thanx for the inquiry, btw I sent an update of my webpage with a bunch of Traynor schematics to my internet provider but they haven't processed it yet. Keep an eye open ...

So your electronics articles will appear in another forum? I would hate to miss them.

Merci beaucoup pour le schema du Bassmaster. En fait, je possede l'autre modele mais j'ai fouille sur ta belle page Web et je l'ai trouve la bas. Merci. De toute facon, j'utilise cet ampli pour ma bass electrique. En regardant les lettres sur ta page, on dirais qu'il a ete concu pour pour la guitare et non la bass. Est-ce vrai? Les sugestions pour modifier l'ampli s'appliqueront-elles pour la bass aussi?

Michel

Hi again,

it has been a while since I received your previous letter with the schemtic. I have only had physical access to the amplifier not legal and I have frantically been trying to reach the owner. (He just moved 2000 miles). Well, now I have finally opened the Traynor and what do I find... a shematic glued to the lid. :-) The schematic is from 72 and differ somewhat, e.g. for the tone controls. They are just typical Marshall-Fender type. Although for some other cases the schematic I got from you were correct and the glued one wrong. Tricky! ;-)

Paid $200 for it. A bargain if the equipment had been working properly and looked less beat up. The cab is a Laney 4 x 12"! (For comparison: a new 100W Marshall stack would be $2000 and second hand $1000 in Sweden. Important to me ;-)

Before I started working on it, it had one major fault: after a minute or so volume dropped to audible but not usable or it just went silent.

My first act on the amp was to remove the tubes and get rid of the dust with a vaccum cleaner and a paint brush. Since then it has been working fine!!

Here comes my modification so far:

1. Channel-select. Swaps the lower of the inputs but leaves the upper unchanged. Used a 6V relay. Rectified the glow- current to get the voltage. Had to move the grounding of the glow- current from the tranformer mid-tap in order to do so.

I believe this did raise the hum a bit.

I taped the relay with carpet tape (rubbery tape with glue on both sides) and placed it in the empty spot below the output transformer. Used screened wires to and from the clean channel.

2. Extra gainstage. Rearranged the "effects" channel by putting in an extra triod. (ECC83, the other is unused). Left the volume and boost-treble between stage 1 and 2. Moved the tone- controlls to after the third stage. Only feed one fifth of the signal to the tone-controlls, otherwise the "reverb-tremolo"-tube clips before the third stage does (Absolutely horrible). The schematic would look very similar to a JCM800 (without the cathode-follower).

First took power from the preamps but that caused motorboating at very high gains. Changed to use the reverb voltage. Physically I placed the new tube to the left of the "effects"-channel original tube right where the grounding point for the reverb-power and phase-splitter was. Turned the "dynamite-stick"-looking cap around and grounded on the preamp grounding instead.

Seems to work well. Haven't tried it on the band yet though.

Future plans:

1. Rectify glow-current for preamp. (loose that hum) 2. Make reverb available for clean channel. 3. Crunch-button. 4. Fuzz-button. (diodes ;-) 5. Power-amp feed-back on-off. 6. Pentode-Triod choice. (Marshall high-low) 7. Have a look at the master volume.

I have to find some really tiny buttons if I am to be able to squeeze them in on the front.

It might be that it is time to change the electrolytic caps. I guess the amp has been around for 20 years. Do you know anything about those "Dynamite-sticks" from Mallory? I would prefere to substitute for a can sticking out of the chassis. That would make room for more changes.

Olof Westman

Subject: Re: The swede and his Traynor

Hi, I received two *different* letters from you in respons to mine. Thats what I call dedication. ;-) Thanks for all the tips.

>>How about that dual cathode resistor pot solution?

>never thought of that because I can imagine all sorts of problems with that method ... I'm curious if there's any advantage to other methods ... in Marshalls the grid-bias master mod is my favorite.

That got a bit more advanced than intended. I meant dual plate resistor. But I guess you understod. ;-)

>>I am reasonably satisfied with the amp right now. But! It does not feel like a 100W amp. Not even like 50W. More like 30. Strange.

>that's not normal, three things to check: (i) power supply ...

I haven't tried it with a load. Looks fine otherwise. Output stage voltage is 412 instead of the specified 430 something, but that is within specified variations.

>, (ii) tubes,

RDS tubes, bias-classified by a swedish company. For some reason they don't all have the same class: 4, 4, 3 and 1. (The usual 10 classes I guess). Measured the bias for them as well as six of my Phillips EL34s. In principle I have no problem finding a Phillips substitute for that class 1 RDS, but I am not so sure about mixing different brands. I could probably find a matching quartet in my Phillips tubes.

>(iii) output tranny laminations.

Tranny is beautiful. That cannot be the problem.

>Check that one side of your phase splitter is not dead or anything like that (i.e, same amplitude mirror image signal pair at both plates - with power tubes in socket)

No, both sides work and voltages are according to spec. There is however a low amplitude rumble of 2Hz. Could be the tremolo I guess.

>>Another thing is the reverb. Embarasingly crappy. Sounds like playing thru grandma's bed.

>... I have my own circuit which I'm publishing and it deals with using the spare "normal" channel as a recovery amp as in Kolkki's mod but to the Tweed signal path. along with Vibroverb vibrato - I've put it in my Mk3 and it's as effective as it is in my Twin and Super ...

You would loose the normal channel?

(... it becomes the controls for the reverb output - output level, and eq. independent from what dry channel levels are - reverb knob becomes a Dwell (reverb drive) ...)

I have one triode currently unused and so have the possibility of making your suggested change without using the normal channel.

Is the idea that the spring-box is fed too high a signal and that making a better recovery amp allows you to lower the input signal? Or is the original design of the recovery amp really poor?

Olof

Daddy's Junky Music (http://www.ugbm.com/cbamp.htm):

Traynor Yba-4 Tubebass Gd $229.99 TRA0385

This is as much a test to see who is still around that enjoys Traynors as anything else. I'm putting together a small list of us for no reason in particular other than as a support group.

KO

P.S. Someday I want to get something like that YBA-4, but for the moment I've been on such a spending rampage that I'm going to have to pass.

I have a bunch of good Canadian tube amps, a Traynor Signature, two Traynor Bassmaster Mark 2s', two Traynor Mark 3s', and a Garnet Rev 2. I am really not a fanatical collector - it is just that they were very cheap - I just find $75 dollar Mark 3s irresistable! They are also very easy to maintain - no printed circuit boards or exotic parts.

Eric

I was delighted to come across your Traynor schematic page. Traynor has historically been ignored - it is nice to see the amps finally getting some attention.

Your schematics were in postscrip format - this is not very convenient for people like me without a postscript printer. I have converted them to gif format and have attached them to this message. perhaps you could post these as well. Is there any chance you could rescan the files at higher resolution? It would make the files much larger - but easier to read. I have several Traynor schematics to send if you are interested - Traynor Mark 3, Bassmaster Mark 2, and Traynor Signature.

I have also included a recent picture of Peter Traynor leaning on a pile of Traynor amplifiers.

Eric

Great idea. I spent the Saturday before last checking out my two favourite Ottawa used music stores (Used Sound and Songbird Music) for a Traynor Custom Special (YBA-3) head - I have finally given up hoping to find a really cheap one.

Songbird only had a strange looking Bassmaster (not a Mark 2) for an outrageous $295. It was in a ugly 'modernized' case with very rounded endplates - must have been one of the last ones Yorkville made in the mid seventies.

Used Sound had sold the YBA-3 I had hoped to buy (I think for $275). They had a nice one in for minor repairs - but stated the owner 'loved his amp' and that there was no chance of buying it. They did have a nice Bassmaster from the 60's in a good looking Fender type case for $200. The manager still complains about the salesman who sold me a nice Traynor Mark 3 head for only $75.00 a year ago.

Traynors seem to be getting harder to find and more expensive. Oh well.

Eric

Someone just praised a Traynor guitar amp in the pages of Vintage Guitar.

I don't know much about the YBA-4? For instance, how many watts is it?

I'm the proud owner of a YBA-1. I used to have two but I traded one plus a hundred dollars for an AMP BH-260.

I've got mine in the living room, so I can play and watch TV at the same time.

dale

Perhaps Eric will correct me if I'm wrong, but I think the YBA-4 is a combo that is basicly a Bassmaster (YBA-1) head with a 12" speaker.

I've also got a Traynor (early Bassmaster) in the living room. The wife's gone for another week - I need to get downstairs and crank up the Custom Special (YBA-3) while I still can.

KO

>Your're going to hate me, but... ;-)

>I'm the guy who bought the YBA-3 from Used Sound.

Oh well, I kept stalling buying it, hoping the price would fall (plus the fact that I don't actually have a rational need for it!)

>Let me see if I can make it up to you... during my calling, I found a YBA-3 with matching cabinet(9x8"? 8x10"?) at the following location:

>Guitar Clinic >16 McKinstry >Hamilton, Ontario >(905) 522-1582

>Was described as clean condition, some(all?) speakers in cab had been replaced with cheap car speakers. but head was in good condition(so the salesman said). Price was $650 Cdn, the rig is on consignment. I had to pass on this one because of shipping costs(although I was temped to drive!!!). I have minimal reference points on price, but for about $450 US(helluva deal!!), you've in essence got a mid power SVT rig! You could probably negotiate a better deal, this was about 7-8 days ago...

I will probably haunt Used Sound in the future, and snap up the next one they get.

>PS: on re-reading your message, I get the impression you've seen(played?) the head I bought. Could you give me a little detail on condition, did you play it, anything would be great!

>Thanks,

>Mike

I haven't tested a YBA-3 at Used Sound recently, but the one I tried a year ago (looked the same, so it may have been the same amp - they have a slow turnover) sounded great. I tried it with a refinished Gibson bass they were selling cheap (can't remember the model number, but it looked like an SG) through a 2-15 cabinet. Great solid 60's type sound (YBA-3s can sound more modern through a 4-10 cabinet and driven by newer pickups) - I annoyed everyone in the store with the volume! I should have bought both the Traynor and the Gibson then - the bass weighed about half what my current bass does.

The YBA-3 I saw recently at Used Sound was one of the later ones - the cabinet had endplates and a removable top. I like the look of the earlier ones, with the Fender style case, but they are a pain to service. Also, the very earliest models use 7027 tubes, which are practically unobtainable. I have an early Traynor Signature which uses a pair of 7027s. A contact has been physically removed from the tube socket - presumably to stop repairmen used to 6L6s from using it as a tie point - there is an internal connection on the 7027 so is not neccessary to use that contact (on a 6L6 the pin for that contact isn't connected). The problem with this is that you can't put in the 6CA7/EL34s used on later Traynors without replacing the tube sockets (they do not have same internal connection, and need that contact to make the connection externally). For a Signature this is not a problem, because you can substitute 6L6/5881 tubes, which are very similar electrically to a 7027 (but with lower maximum voltage ratings). However, you can't do that on a YBA-3, because of the much higher voltages involved (unless you are vey brave and like fireworks). I don't know how common the practice of removing a contact was.

Just wanted to say thanks for puting the Traynor stuf up on the net. I have a early YBA-3 that I love, and like to collect any info I can on Traynor amps.

One suggestion though, the YBA3 Custom Special schematic you have is way large (2000 x 3000 pixels!) It takes an awful long time to load, and would probably trash some systems. If you can, could you resize it to around 1200x700 to help it load quickly and fit into a normal screen?

Thanks and thanks again for the Traynor stuff.

- Kevin Barry

>I included some mod ideas for the BassMaster although they're meant to be considered as "potential" ... stock BassMasters sound great though myself I wouldn't flinch at modding later ones ... anyway, no need for ethics here; they're great amps and they can be enhanced just like any other amp.

FYI,

This month's "Vintage Guitar" has a mod to the BassMaster for adding a Gain type control.

>the trick is to use something like photoshop to resize it to print size ... all the files have been given a height of 10 inches at which point the resolution reaches 300dpi which is even hardly good enough for much of these schematics ...

>I ain't no expert at this, so if what I'm saying ain't right please let me know ... thanx

I've got some schematics for the YBA-1A(Mark II) Bassmaster, YBA- 4 Combo, and the mysterious YBA-5(never seen one, what is it???) However, all are paper copies and I have no way of converting to files to send to the archive...Could you use these? I can always use the(gulp!) postal service!

Thanks,

Mike

There are some interesting comments on Traynor amps in Harmony Central's Amp database at:

The reviews of te Custom Special are particularly informative. There is a good circuit diagram of this amp at

Here is a quote from a review of a Mark 3

I love the sounds it makes, I love how you can beat the crap out of it, but it's REALLY heavy. It can be a pain in the behind to lug up and down stairs. If it was ever lost or stolen, I don't know what I'd do... Traynors are pretty hard to find. Oh, BTW, this is the make of amp that launched a thousand Canadian rock bands in the Seventies.

Submitted by: Donnie

<<<<

Models Reviewed:

Traynor Bassmate YBA-2B - user comments Mark II Head - user comments Mark III (100W, 2x12 Tube combo) - user comments Mark V (2x12 Combo) - user comments Reverb Master (50 Watt Tube Head) - user comments YRM-1 Reverb Master - user comments YBA-3 Custom Special (160W Tube bass amp) - user comments YSR- 1 Custom Reverb (200W (Tube head) - user comments

I tracked down a copy of the Bassmaster mod that Dale Houston informed us of yesterday. Send me your snail mail address if you want me to send you a second gen photocopy of it to you. I've got a "reflector" logo Bassmaster that's probably going to get the mod. Unless I misread the article, all four input jacks remain intact (from a users standpoint), but the channel one volume becomes one volume (pre or post gain? I'm not sure, I'll have to reread) and the channel two volume becomes the other. The appearance of the amp remains the same.

The wording of the article implies that Dan Torres is going to run a series on Traynor mods. This would probably be a good time for some of us to subscribe. I'm going to. Here's the URL to the Vintage Guitar website:

http://www.vguitar.com/vguitar.htm

KO

Beware: Some of this is bassist rant and stated as such. I don't say this to dissuade anyone from modding their Traynor, but rather help you question why you are modding the amp. If you mod to add capacity to the power supply to increase bass response, or to reduce hum or instability or facilitate servicing, I think that's of interest (at least to me). If you mod to make your amp sound dirtier, please consider the following.

My experience has been that adding "gain" or "master" controls tends to produce a lot of distortion; not the best thing for bass use. Also, since a major component of that distortion is even harmonic overtones, its not really the "mojo" that guitarists want from bass amps either. This is why some of Torres' mods get trashed on the alt.guitar.amp newsgroup. (BTW, I read his book and thought it was a good intro to many concepts).

Most gearheads I know have come to the realization that tube amps sound good when maximum stress is placed on the output stage, while the preamp stages have enought headroom to behave in fairly linear fashion. Of course they don't put it this way. They usually say "Just put the control on 7-8". The idea that you can simulate or enhance that effect within the preamp by creating a stage with reduced headroom disregards many factors, most significantly the roles of the power supply, output transformer, feedback circuit and speakers. What happens when all these are uniformly placed under stress is complex.

We've all heard it in action. There seems to be no getting around the dilemma that tube amps sound their best within a narrow range of environments (room sizes, room resonances, bandstand levels, etc). In the wrong environment, a beloved tube amp will make the player miserable. This is why I can't argue with most bass player's choice of solid state amps.

Have you ever been in a tiny rehearsal room with a properly operated classic Hiwatt or AC30? It hurts; its not the pleasing tone you hear on records.

Thanks for the offer to send the mod, but I really think my reflector YBA-1 is fine as is. Took it out on the road this last weekend and got yet more compliments on it. Its great for small clubs or gigs with big reinforcement. If I need more power onstage, I take one of my Sound City heads.

Having said all that, if you mod a master volume or gain control onto your amp and you love the result, then hey, thats good. Consider also: you may now think that a Traynor is a good project amp. Of course that what people thought of Danelectro guitars back in the 70's too. Oh, and mods to change the color of the power lamp filter or project a subliminal message through it are always ok.

so.... "Are you a Mod, or a Rocker"? "I'm a mocker" - from the film "A Hard Day's Night"

-Tony

It finally showed up Monday afternoon at the house. The guys at Used Music in Ottawa really did me right. The amp is in xlnt condition cosmetically, with no obvious blemishes at all. The fan is mounted in a circular cutout on the side of the cabinet, different from the only other one I've seen, which had the fan mounted near the xformers inside. (Im guessing this must be an early 70's model) Also, only one volume control, no master volume.

Got my first chance last night to actually plug and play. As I expected, it can get LOUD! I ran it thru my 410 cab and was impressed with the different sounds I could get, especially with the boost switches and treble/bass expanders. Definitely more versatile than the Bass Masters. It definitely has the tube girth I was looking for, in general, though, it's not quite as "tight" as my SVT/V4B heads at mid volumes. I'm thinking maybe worn power tubes(Sovtek EL34Gs, dont know how old). this weekend I'm going to visit Dixie Sound Works and let John there give it a going over, re-bias, etc. I suspect that a little TLC is all it needs. Over the next couple weeks I'll be working with it more, possibly gigging, I'll fill in more details later...

Thx to all who have helped me in the search for this amp. I truly like the idea of this Traynor group, lets keep it going!

Thanks,

Mike

I've heard that the YBA-1 is the same circuit as one of the Marshalls of it's era (60's to early 70's), but I'm not sure which model. Still, I'd recommend buying it (suprised?). The rhythm guitarist in my band got a convincing sound out of mine. They are a great amp - good components, especially the power transformer and very conservatively engineered, so they are reliable as hell. If it makes a sound it's worth the money. I guarantee that you will find some good tones in there. If you don't like it, contact me (kraigo@aol.com) and we can probably come to terms. I have two Bassmasters and if I see another for $150 or less I'll still buy it.

(i) ... yes, it is almost-identical to the old Bassman (I had a modification list for that amp that doesn't deface it's original character - I'll put it up today) ... except Traynor had to change a few values so they wouldn't get sued by Fender ... in particular the volume pots are 4Meg which gives the circuits a slightly spungier attack (try this in a Fender or Marshall amp and it'll sound a bit more Traynorish) ... also the tone stack cap values is the other place the Traynor Bassmaster circuit differs from the Bassman/JTM45 ... Filter caps are notoriously poor in most Traynors anyway and need to be improved - either to improved-Fender values or stock-Marshall depending on degree of "Tweednessness" required (or Marshall ) ... the YBA1 ia a tinkerer's favorite, some will get pissed off here ... a few "careful" snips can bring this unit to it's utmost potential I believe ... still, stock it's nice enough for sure ...

(ii) ... in my opinion the sixties Bassmasters sound quite better stock though the later ones are great/better (IMFO again) for extensive high-gain modding ... btwm you'll notice this $150 amp beats most boutique stuff, stick it next to a $2600 Rivera and make your comparisons ! ... in my mindthis beautiful sounding YBA-1 amp belongs up there with Tweeds, AC-30's and Marshalls for real natural guitar tones ... one of the best all-time amps ... yep, maybe I should shut up now ... :)

(iii) The early Bassmaster is Pete Traynor's version of the Fender 5F6/8-A ('58-'59 Bassman/Twin) circuit that Marshall suplicated in the JTM45 ('62) and stuck to somewhat thereafter ... both Traynor ('65) and Marshall introduce changes to the 5F6/8-A topolgy (Twin and Bassman are nearly identical topolgies) that distinguish them from the mother topology ... the Traynor version alters the volume pot values to a high 4Meg - this gives the preamp an overly spungy feel due to interaction with dynamic grid currents (players who find Traynors more wimpy should look into this) ... also like Marshall, the Traynor BassMaster output stage is slightly different in flavour and drive characteristics relative to the 5F6/8-A Fender circuit ... the BassMaster originally was running on 7027A's and later changed to EL34s, the BassMaster tranny is massive and appears quite reliable over time (Traynors amps were in general well enough built except that they, especially some combos like the later YGL3) were too heavy for most civilians) ... like Marshall, Traynor also did change a few components in the tone stack versus the Fender 5F6-A tone stack (actually, these values similar to Fender Blackface/Silverface values in fact) ... the early Bassmaster probably sports one of the best, if not Tha! One, output tranny traynor ever used and is the main reason to play this piece, same goes with all good amps obviously ... chicken knobbed that one ...

Im not sure if this is the right place to inquire, but I'm looking to purchase a YBA-3 head, with the fan mounted onto the side of the wall, not mounted inside the cabinet.

This would be the 68-69 model years. Anything available? and what would be your selling price. Many Thanks

Im trying to locate a 68-69 Traynor YBA-3 head. Do you know of any that are for sale, or someone that I can contact to negotiate a purchase with. Many Thanks

Rick Maddeaux

I have a Traynor amplifier "CustomSpecial". I'm in the process of repairing it. I'm looking for three (3) metal Traynor logos.

If you know where I could find some please let me know.

Julien Audette

I have a YBA-3 chassis (with a different circuit in it at the moment) but I think it's a '70 ... the earlier ones sound a bit better I've noticed ... I'll take a look around the pawn shops today, there's lots of Traynors around town for sale

cheers, jc

Are you located in Toronto? I found a music store in the states that's selling one for $275 US, but with the exchange rate the damn thing is twice as much, and that's too much to pay for a 30 year old head. I appreciate your help Rick

I went down to have a look yesterday and all they (NJAM here in Vancouver) had was a BasMaster Combo ($400) ... a '72 Bassmaster head ($325) ... and a Mk3 YGL-3A for ($395) ... a bit pricey ... I agree with US prices, good for selling ... I'll keep an eye open for ya

hi enjoying your website. I've got a Traynor YBA 2B; wasn't able to access your schematics

>yeah I've modded many Traynors for channel switching Marshall distortion ... I'm putting out a book soon that's got the details ... you can get end of the world tone from a well modded Traynor ... keep an eye open on the net or Vintage Guitar